Techniques

 
 March 28, 2012  Techniques No Responses »

As we all know there are thousands of very cool quilt patterns out there in the quilting world, as well as thousands of appliqué patterns.  All of these can be adapted for use with wool.

For traditional pieced patterns, try to avoid traditionally stitched seams, they cause a big hump that is hard to disguise.   My suggestion in this case is to cut out the pattern pieces without the seam allowance, and butt them up to each other and/or cut the entire pattern out of one piece of wool and stitch it to a background.   For example:  If you are doing a star quilt, cut the entire star out in one piece and stitch it to the background instead of cutting all the many pieces of the star.  If you choose to cut out each piece individually then you will need to be sure to get them tight so the background fabric doesn’t show through.  Avoid overlapping any of the pieces as this also causes a hump.

With that said, I have used traditional seams to piece a large background on a lap-sized (or bigger) quilt.  I still get the humps, but they are spread-out and don’t overpower my design.

Any and all appliqué patterns are begging to be stitched in wool.  A couple of things to look for and avoid or adjust if possible are:  1.  Designs with lots of small pieces – take the design to a copy machine and enlarge it so the pieces are a stitchable size.  2.  Use only a portion of the design.  Just because it is drawn on the pattern doesn’t mean you have to do it all.  Pick the components of the design that appeal to you and use them.  3.  Cut out your pattern pieces without the seam allowance.

 
 November 16, 2011  Techniques No Responses »

If you are unsure of cutting round Pennies freehand, then cut the wool into squares the same size as the diameter of your finished circles.  For example, if you need 2” circles, cut the wool into 2” squares and simply round the corners off.  This method works well for any size circle you may need to cut.

Another option is to make paper templates and pin them to the wool.  We never iron the felted wool because it flattens the soft nap.  For this reason we don’t recommend freezer paper templates.  Template plastic is also available if you need a more permanent template.

There is a tool on our Web site called Penny Rings.  They are metal rings in a variety of sizes that work great for cutting circles.  They have a no-slide texture on one side so they don’t slip when you are using them.

Here at Wild Thymes, we don’t want our pennies to be perfectly round.  The little odd shapes give the finished piece a touch of character.  Not everyone can be this casual about the circles so do what is best for you!

 
 November 15, 2011  Techniques No Responses »

Lucky me!  While on my Spring trip a very clever student gave me a great idea that I couldn’t wait to share with you.  Most of you know that I preach against ironing your wool!   I prefer freehand cutting but I also know that some of you are uncomfortable with that method.  Lots of stitchers want to use freezer-paper templates – this requires ironing and, again, as you know I have issues with that.

Here’s a way to get around the ironing:  Purchase the 8 1/2”x11” sticky paper that is used for mailing labels but isn’t cut into small label pieces – just the full sheets.  Transfer your design to the paper either by running it through a copy machine or tracing it onto the label paper.  Cut out your shapes and stick them to your wool!  Each shape can be used numerous times and best of all – NO IRONING!

There are also some new marking tools on the market that you could draw right on the wool but that is so much more work.  Always be aware with marking tools that any colored chalk/ink/lead has colored dye in them.  This may or may not permanently stain your wool.  Also any fade-away or washout markers are a chemical and can cause long-term damage if it isn’t washed out – not just spritzed with water.

 
 October 18, 2011  Techniques No Responses »

Most of Wild Thymes designs can be used in a variety of ways.  One of my favorites is to frame them for hanging in a room that coordinates with the design.   Once the appliqué is finished, trim the background to get the sides to match, and the top and bottom to match.  For example, if the finished piece is 12”x20”, be sure the 2 sides are each 12” and the top and bottom are both 20”.  If you are off a little, trim the background down so you have a perfect size.  Next, position the first background onto a much larger second background (at least 4” larger on all 4 sides).  This becomes the “mat” for your wool appliqué, so make it a nice contrast to the background.  The extra background also gives the framer extra fabric to work with to get your piece framed just right.

Always have the bottom measurement on the wool mat larger than the top and sides.  For example, if the top and sides are 2” wide, be sure the bottom is 3” or 3 1/2” wide.  Your framer will help with these measurements.

Because wool is so dimensional, we do not recommend putting glass over it.  Glass creates a glare and flattens your wool.  I have tried it both ways and definitely like it better without glass.  If the piece gets dusty, just use a roller brush (with sticky tape) on it or a feather duster.  Don’t use anything that has oils or polish on it.

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